Posts Tagged ‘part 2

30
Oct
11

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 2

This tutorial post is continued from

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Spooky fish skeleton that is not just for Halloween.

At least that is what I think anyway.

I love this cane.

I hope you have fun making it too.

You will need:

Black Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain Cernit

Biscuit Cernit

Clay slicing blade

Clay machine

Ruler if you wish

I mixed the black clay with Biscuit and the white clay with porcelain in equal parts

Condition and roll out the black in to a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine.

This is the last picture from part 1 here

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Add a sheet of white to the center of the cut on one side. The sheet will be rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting.

Put the stack back together with the white sheet in the middle…

Roll a 1/2″ coil of the white clay and press in to a triangle with your thumb and forefinger.

Add the triangle point up to the fish bones. Like this.

Roll a 3/4″ coil of black.

Press that coil into a triangle too.

Make the points of the triangle pretty sharp.

Trim the triangle black piece to fit the stack of rib bones.

Cut that triangle piece in half.

Make the points even sharper if you have too.

Add one half to one side of the tail and the other half to the other side of the tail. Press in to the tail evenly.

Add a sheet of black clay rolled out on the thickest setting in the pasta machine to the bottom of the tail.

Like this!

Roll a 1″ coil of white clay and trim to the length of the stack of bones and tail.

Press this in to a triangle shape and see if it is the same size as the stack of bones and tail.

Cut straight down and cut off one point of the triangle.

Like so!

Place a bamboo skewer or brass rod on the cut side of the big triangle on the top 1/3 of the triangle.

Press the rod gently in to the triangle.

Add the other cut sections right back to the triangle with the brass rod still in place.

Form the 2nd cut half around the rod to form a half circle cell in the both pieces of the triangle.

Peel the one section off the other section and remove the brass rod.

Roll a coil of black clay the size of the brass rod about 1/8″ and place in the channel of the big part of the white triangle.

Cut off the black coil so it is the length of the white triangle piece.

Place the smaller section of the triangle together with the larger one leaving the black coil inside.

This will be the eye for the fish bone cane.

Using your blade again cut into the opposite side of the cane at more of an angle. Cut all the way through to the bottom edge of the white triangle.

Like so.

Pull off the small section with never changing the orientation of the pieces.

Roll out some black clay on the 3rd thickest setting and place a strip about 1/4″ in width on the length of the small cut off white piece of the larger triangle.

This piece will slide under the bigger white piece of the triangle, so the black strip will go along the outside edge of the small piece.

Like so!

Using your thumb and forefinger compact everything together. Shaping back in to a triangle and pressing the small piece with the black together with the large piece of the triangle as if it is one piece.

Place the triangle head in the center of the bones on the stack.

Roll a black coil that is 1 1/8″ in diameter and the length of the stack of fish bones.

Press in to a triangle shape and cut the pieces in half.

Make the points of the triangle more defined.

Place one half on each side of the head of the fish.

Wrap all sides with a sheet of black rolled out on the thickest setting.

Reduce by compressing all sides one at a time with the palm of your hand and then flipping the cane from end to end and compressing all 4 sides of the cane again.

Repeat this slowly and gently until the cane is smaller by half the size.

It is best to be more forceful in the center of the cane to force the inside of the cane out.

As Katherine Dewey once told me “Oh, you are pressing on the “x” and the “y” axis which forces the “z” out through the center”.

EXACTLY!

This is the inside of that cane using that method!

Enjoy and have a safe and fun Halloween!

Boos and hisses!

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06
Jun
11

Flower cane and Bottle of hope- part 2

Here is the second part and it is continued from part one here http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/06/flower-cane-and-bottle-of-hope-part-1.html

You will need:

Violet Cernit- 1,
2.2 ounce packages

Opaque White
Cernit- 2, 2.2 ounce packages

Black Cernit-1, 2.2
ounce packages

Yellow Cernit- 1.
2.2 ounce package

Porcelain White
Cernit- large package 1.1 pound

Clay
Machine

Clay Slicing
Blade

Acrylic roller

Ruler

All links lead to my hubby’s store http://www.clayfactory.net

Thank you so much for looking, we appreciate that.
;-D

Mix all of the colors, even the black and opaque white with an equal amount
of porcelain white.

17.  Flatten the shaded coil that you made a little on the work surface by
standing it on its flattest end. Cut through the length of the cane with you
clay blade.

I stand over the top of the coil and watch as I cut down.

Leave the cane exactly this way after you remove the blade.

18. Make another cut in the top half of the cane, fan it out from the center
of the last cut.

Leave the cane this way after removing the blade again.

19. Make another cut in the lower half of the cane fanning it out from the
center cut.

Remove the blade and leave the cane standing with the everything the way it
was cut.

20. Roll out some of the black clay on the 5th thickest setting and make it a
long sheet.

Trim off the leading edge for a straight edge.

Separate the bottom section of the cut cane.

21. Lay the cane section along the straight edge with the cut edge of the
section facing down on the clay. Trim the black sheet to match the bottom
section of purple shaded cane.

Place the cane section and the black sheet back together with the shaded coil
exactly (or almost exactly) the way it came apart.

22. Take the half section of the coil apart and place it on the black sheet
cut face down on the sheet.

23. Trim the black sheet around the cane half.

24. Place the cane half back together with the black sheet in the center.

You do not have to smash these together now. You do not really have to touch
the cane that much. Just place it back together and match top and bottom.

25. Remove the last section and place the cut edge on the black sheet and
trim the black clay away from that section.

26. Place that section back together.

27. Place the shaded coil and its inserts on the black sheet of clay on the
last trimmed edge and wrap the cane with that sheet.

28. Roll the leading cut edge over on the
opposite edge of the sheet of black and gently make the mark. Roll the coil and
the sheet back.

29. With your blade cut just inside the line you made with the leading
edge.

30. Roll the coil up and the edges should meet almost perfectly.

31. Pinch a waist with your thumb and forefinger like we have already done on
the African trade bead canes, you cane see them here

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/05/african-trade-beads-part-12-shinning_22.html

Turn and press all the way to the top of the cane from the middle section.
Turn the cane over and press and rotate a little at a time to the top again
until you have reduced the cane to half the diameter it was.

32. The cane section might be quite knobby, it is OK!

33. Start to roll the cane down with one hand and when it gets longer add
both hands. Roll over 360 degrees and draw hands out gently away from each
other. If you roll with short little movements you will place lumps in the coil.
360 and nice and smooth.

34. Roll down to a little over half-inch in diameter and cut in half with a
rolling cut by roll the coil forward at the same time that you move the blade
forward.

35. Your cane cut should look like this.

36. Cut off a 2″ section of half of the cane.

Roll down section to 10″.

Should be about 1/4″ to 3/16″ in diameter.

Cut in to 5- 2″ sections.

37. This will look wrong because the section is bigger that yours will be. I
made it that way so you could see it better.

Pinch the end of the cane section right where all the black lines meet.

Turn the can over and pinch the other end where the lines meet.

38. The pinches should line up. If they don’t you rock the ends of the cane
back and forth to line them up.

39. Like these do.

Pinch all the way down the edge of the cane to the other mark or pinch you
made. If I do this I do not have to use registration marks on the outside of the
cane. If when you roll your cane you flip it from end to end once in a while and
roll on the other side too.

40.
Place the sections together with the points in the middle forming a little well
in the center as you go.

Place
three together.

41.
Like this!

42.
Take a small amount of yellow and roll it in to a tiny coil, this one is less
than an 1/8″ in diameter. Place it in the center.

43.
Place the other two petals in around the center and look at the end to move the
petals around so they all come out from the center at the same distance and are
uniform.

Take
the ends of the coil with your fingers and rock the ends back and forth opposite
from each other, to pull out the cane gently.

You
can also run your fingers down the edges of the cane to move it down. This is
very gentle and slow process that takes patience so not to smash the edges of
the cane together. You place your fingers in to the dips in between the petals
as you move down the cane.

44. If you cut the cane in the middle you will have a flower with out edges
and is in the shape of a flower. Set this aside and we will add canes to the
outside of another flower to fill it in also.

I use this flower just like this by taking slices off it with out having any background on it. The next flower will have a background and the two will be used together on a BOH (bottle of hope) along with just the petal slices too, Oh and some of the background canes too. You will see step by step… ;-D

Coming next part 3…

18
May
11

African Trade beads-part 12 Shinning Star part b

This is continued from Part one here:

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/05/african-trade-beads-part-12-shinning.html

You will need:

Clay Machine

clay slicing blade-SB

Red Cernit

Yellow Cernit

Blue Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Green Cernit

Porcelain White Cernit

Ruler if you need it

Middle cutter in the Makin’s clay Star set M36006

Knitting needle 3 to 4mm

All links above lead to my husband’s on-line store the http://www.clayfactory.net/  

Thank you so much for looking.

Mix all of the colors and the opaque white with equal amount of the porcelain white.

Last picture from the last part

I go back and cradling the star in my palm I pinch the points on the star again to sharpen them up.


Roll out a sheet of the conditioned red that is long about 5″x at least 2 1/2″ wide.

Trim for straight edges on three sides.

Roll out a coil that is about 3/8″ in diameter and the width of the sheet.

Lay the coil along the bottom edge of the sheet. 
 

Roll up the sheet and the coil together to form a large coil of clay.

Trim off the rough edge and roll the whole thing up.

Roll the cane down until at least half or more fit in one of the dips between the points of the star.

Measure it to the height of the stacked stars and cut one. I trim off one end of the red log so it will stand straight next to the star stack.

Cut two more of those coils. 

Press with your finger and thumb of one hand down and out on the coil and then using the clay slicing blade cut the coil in half.

Do that with the other two coils too!

Like this.

Make the coil into a triangle piece by pressing with your thumb and forefinger on top of the coil half, press straight down with your finger and thumb pressed together.

It will look like this. Do that with the other pieces, you will only need 5 total.

Place the point of the coil into the dip between the point of the stars. Place one in each dip.

Stand the star up so you do not smash the points of the star.

Trim off the excess length from the top of the triangle half coils.

Place all of the coils before worrying about how they fit yet!

Place the last one in and trim off the excess from the top.

Note* I cradle this in my other hand while press the two edges of the half triangle coils together.

I do a little at a time on all of them and then turn the cane from end to end and so it again all the way around.

I am only showing it on the work surface because I take the pictures by myself.

Press your thumb towards your forefinger.

Here is what the star stack will look like after you have packed it.

Don’t worry if it doesn’t look perfect from the end. There is some distortion by pressing the clay and the ends will look funny but may not be funny inside.

Condition and roll out a sheet of the opaque white. Trim the side to the star stack and the edge before the star stack.

Now trim the other side to match the star stack.

Roll the cane up in the sheet of white and roll the leading cut edge over the sheet on the opposite end to make a mark. You do not have to press hard just enough to make a mark with the cut edge.

With your clay slicing blade cut just inside the mark you made with the opposite edge

 of clay.

Roll the cane up in the sheet and the edges should meet very nicely.

Trim off the excess, if there is any.

Stay tuned for part 3…

05
May
11

More of the scrapbook!

Yesterday, I slept all day.

I told you about the cold I had before. Well, It came back with a vengeance.

Knocked me down and continued to flog me for a few days.

We have what we call in Southern California , Santa Ana weather conditions. These have not helped by drying me out, as I would imagine they would, they have made me feel awful.

It is so dry that I have had nose bleeds all day yesterday. This just sucks.

My head hurts so bad.

Anyway… whining over, here are the other pictures to the scrapbook! You can find the first part here

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/05/jodi-and-i-spend-weekend-paper-crafting.html

After this I am going back to sleep!

Another lovely paper, flap closed.

Flap open tags inside.

Tag out so you can see behind.

I though the paper with the alphabets was too big, but I think it looks good.

Flap closed and pages facing each other. This is how the pages will look when you open the book.

These pages have a slightly green cast to them.

Next 2 pages and these have a slightly blue tint to the pages. I do adore domino’s, so this paper is perfect for me!

You can also see how the tag fits in the top flap and in to the small flap on the right of the left page.

Hard to believe I wrote that with this cotton covered head.

The right page with the tag in the bag, but no tag in the flap or little pocket next to the rivets

 and along the bottom.

Another awesome paper, I love the music sheet.

No tags for this one yet!

Writing happens to be one of my favorites too and with this brown fabric looking paper I wish I would have put this is the front of the book. The part of the paper that has the darker pattern over the top of it is glossy, nice contrast to the matt paper.

Here is the last page, it is the same as the front page facing the cover or I should say it matches that one.

Here you can see it with the inside cover of the album.

Binding this one was not working for Jodi or I. We used rings and then cables and it was just not opening right.

I had bought some wire cable necklaces from a gem fair I went to and tried those on the book.

The book opens nicely and the pages fall flat when you open them.

I think they are going to work. This is the bottom of the front cover.

Tah Dah!

Night-night!

14
Mar
11

African Trade Beads- part 2

Part 1 here or http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-1.html

Favecraft link here http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/fave-crafts-blog-hop-march-15th.html I messed up and posted the wrong link 😦

Well, the 1st cane is made and you need something to do with that cane, so I am going to give you a couple of simple beads to play with now.

You will need:

Clay slicing blade

Needle tool

Bamboo skewer

1st Bead

You will need a ball of red clay mix, you can find that on part 1.

The ball of red clay is about 3/4″ or a little smaller.

Roll a 2″ length of the cane you made in to a 3/8″ coil and slice off little pieces. These are about 1/16″ in thickness.

 Place six slices around the center of the ball, leaving a small space between each slice and the next.

Place three slices on the top and three below the center slices.

The ball will pretty much be covered with slices.

Roll the ball with slices gently at first and the a little more rapidly in to a ball.

I like to leave the lines in the beads between the slices and the backgrounds, it looks more like the real African trade beads made out of glass.

Pierce with your bamboo skewer by drilling in to one side. And drill the skewer out and drilling through the hole on the other side.

2nd Bead

Using a ball of black clay the same size as the one for the bead above. Roll it in to a ball and then roll in to a 1″coil.

Pierce with a bamboo skewer by drilling through one side and when the tip shows a little, drill it out of the bead.

Then drill through the other side and the same hole.

Using the same size slices add two at a time to the bead and then add two right next to that row but in the spaces between the other slices.

Stagger the slices in this pattern all the way around the bead. 

I leave the bead on the skewer so I do not distort the hole or the bead.

Once covered with slices roll the bead on the skewer on the work surface to smooth a little. Leave the slices raised from the surface of the black core.

With the clay blade roll the bead and the blade forward away from you at the same time and cut off the ends of the bead for a straight edge on each side.

Bake the bead on one of the ends on a piece of cardboard.This way there is no shiny spot on the bead.

Cardboard is the same texture as the baked clay.

  

3rd Bead

Using a smaller piece of red clay than the first bead and thinner slices.

Place the slices as close as you can get them to each other.

Place the slices all over the surface of the red ball and then gently roll the bead at first and then roll a little faster and with more pressure from your palms.

I roll this bead until the surface is smooth with no lines from the slices showing.

Roll this ball in to a teardrop.

 Flatten the thick end of the teardrop with your forefinger and thumb. It will be about 1/4″ thick.

Use a bamboo skewer to make an indentation in the thick end of the teardrop to form the lobes of the heart.

Here are the beads so far, I have one more to show you.

4th Bead

This bead can be used as a little spacer or for a bead itself.

Slice the cane slices as thick as the diameter of the cane rod.

Using the head pins poke holes in the beads by drilling the head pin through the slice.

Bake all of the beads on a piece of cardboard in a 275 degree F. pre-heated oven for 30 minutes. Shut off the oven and let the beads cool in the oven until you can touch them or place them hot out of the oven in other to a bowl of ice water to cool.

Next, a cane pattern???

09
Nov
10

Oh, wooden it be lovely? a diy story part 2

 

The one on the left is Ivory and the one on the right is wood.

Ivory is done the same way, the colors are just different.

Continued from part 1

All links will lead to my Hubby’s on line store Clay Factory.

I endorse this blatant plug. ;-D

You will need:

2 blocks of Opaque White Cernit

1 block of White Porcelain Cernit

1 block of Caramel Cernit

1 block of Champagne Cernit

Clay Machine

Acrylic roller

Clay Slicing Blade

12. This is the picture and step12 from the last post, part 1.

Here is the stack from the side so you can see the thickness.

Roll the length of the whole stacked sheets through clay machine on the thickest setting.

You will have a big long strip.

13. Hold both of the ends of the sheet up so that you can find the middle of the sheet and cut in half.

14. Turn one of the halves 180 degrees and stack on top of the other sheet so both cut edges are on the same side of the stack. The caramel side of the top sheet will go on to the Opaque white side of the other.

Press them together or roll with your roller. Not a lot just to tack them together.

15. Roll these two stacked sheets together lengthwise through the machine on the thickest setting.

Cut the sheet in half and then rotate one of the sheets horizontally 180 degrees so the cut edges are on the same side.

16. Now stack these sheets and roll with the acrylic roller to tack them together.

Roll the length of the sheets through the clay machine again.

17. Cut this sheet in half as before and stack the same way by rotating one of the sheets and stacking with the cut edges on the same side.

18. Here is the stacked sheet. Do not roll through the machine this time. You are not going to roll it through again until you get to the end.

Cut in half again. Stack one on top of the other.

I have a lot of cracks because I am stopping and photographing in between each shot and step. But… cracks are good, and this is some of the best faux wood I have ever made.

I was getting upset and I thought I’d have to re-shoot this all over again, but I decided to show you what really happens and when I was done it was gorgeous.

When I am doing this technique I am going through the steps one after the other and I have a lot less cracking.

The Cernit is really wonderful for these layered techniques because of the depth the porcelain effect adds to the technique.

 

19. OK, I have stacked one half on top of the other again. See this little tab.

Cut it off.

20. Place it on top of the stack anywhere you want. It will add yet more variation.

21. Here is what all those little layers look like on the side.

Stay tuned to part 3…

23
Oct
10

From Plain to Fabulous- a step by step story, part 2

This is continued from Part 1 here http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2010/10/from-plain-to-fabulous-step-by-step.html



We are making this box



Stamp in to the surface of the clay with a rubber stamp. I place my hand on the underside of the lid and then press the stamp against my hand to make a deep impression. If you have put too much glue on at this point you will know. The clay will start sliding around. Let it sit for a bit and the continue. Press the stamp straight down.

Stamp the whole surface of the clay.

Place the believe banner on the surface and arc it up a little.

Roll out some more black clay on the thickest setting and cut out 3 of the oak like leaves in the cutter set. With the back of your clay slicing blade make the center vein in the leaves and then mark the outside veins. I have placed one leaf right under each side of the banner and then I placed one in the bottom point of the heart which will show in the next picture.

Take 2- 1/8″ balls of clay and place one on each side of the banner. Using the handle of a paint brush or the end of a small crochet hook make a indent right in the middle of the balls.

Place a smaller ball in each indented ball.

Make a mark in the center of the smaller ball to make it look like a screw.


Cut out 5 of the petal shape you see here. The one that sort of looks like heart.

Bend the petal over your finger like this. This will put a little curve in the petal.

Make lines with a dull knife or the back of the blade on each petal in a fan shape to the point of the petal. 

I used a 1/2 ball of clay for the center and it shows that I used the screen piece to make texture in the center after I placed it in the flower, but it is much easier to press the 1/2″ ball in to the screen and then place it in the center of the flower.

Paint the powders on with a soft, soft brush or your finger on the lid and bake in a 275 degree pre-heated over for 30 minutes and shut off and let cool in oven.

Once cool paint the lid and the box inside and out with several coats of True Gold Lumiere, letting each coat dry before applying the next one.

Tah- dah!!




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