Posts Tagged ‘instruction

27
Mar
19

Experiment #8

Ok experiment #8, unedited, except for rotation and cropping for size, taken in mostly natural light that was changing constantly and photographed with my iPhone.

Clayfactory.net/Cernit

❤️

Marie Segal

For your understanding and viewing pleasure:

The Colors of Cernit translucent mixes from Experiment #7

baked and unbaked.

#cernit #mariesegal

Clayfactory.net/cernit

Bordeaux Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalRuby Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalOrange Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalAmber Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalLime Green Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalEmerald Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalTurquoise Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalSapphire Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalViolet Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegal

23
Mar
19

The 7th experiment with Cernit polymer clay

This is the 7th experiment: mixing all the glitter translucent’s into all the colored Translucent colors.

I have 12 translucent colors now, plus the clear white Translucent. The new colors are Bordeaux, Orange, Lime green, glitter silver, glitter gold, and glitter white.

Clayfactory.net/Cernit

There is the ripple bead I did the video for, it looks great on these beads. There are solid color translucent disks in between the three new translucent glitter colors.

Starting on the top left side, beginning with Bordeaux and ending in violet translucent.

In each color section the top one on the left in Bordeaux mixed with white glitter, then silver, then gold.

So the little flat disks are the translucent color with nothing in it so you can see how it bakes up and how different it looks using the glitters in each of the colors.

❤️

Marie

#Cernit

21
Mar
19

A quick little bead technique, by Marie Segal

Here is a quick little bead technique, I am working with glitter colors of clay, mixing them with all the translucents.

I am making a color necklace so I can see what each glitter translucent does in other translucent’s.

❤️

Marie

#Cernit

07
Mar
19

The 4th experiment Tute

Okay here is the 4th experiment! Coloring the standard gold metallic clay to make other metallic colors. I am going to do few so hang in there! This is using Piñata inks because they dry on the surface of the clay rapidly. I have great luck with these inks and I need for them to be completely alcohol based only, nothing that extends working time in a ink is going to work the same way as these. Some of the current inks on the market are using these additives now. They are wonderful for other applications, but in my opinion, not so much for these ones coming up. I want it to dry fast so I can mix it in and I don’t have all over me, all my tools, pasta machine, and work surface. Cover the surface of the gold metallic raw clay 2”x 2” tile! Roll out on thickest setting in pasta machine. Cover each square clay tile with ink on surface dry. #Cernit

Okay here is the experiment! Coloring the standard gold clay to make more metallic colors.

I am going to do few here, so hang in there!

As for #1,#2,and #3, I will get those on here as soon as I can!

😁

#CernitThis is using Piñata inks because they dry on the surface of the clay rapidly.

I have great luck with these inks and I need them to be alcohol based only, nothing that extends working time.

Some of the current inks on the market are using different additives now to extend the working time.

I want it dry fast so I can mix it in and I don’t have all over me, all my tools, pasta machine, and work surface.

Cover the surface of the gold metallic raw clay 2”x 2” tile! Roll out on thickest setting in pasta machine.

Cover each square clay tile with ink on surface, let dry.Here I have covered the Gold metallic 2”x2” tile with Lime Green Piñata and the one on the left with Baja blue Piñata ink.

It took about ten minutes to dry on a pouring rain day where I live.

But depending on your climate and ambient temp it could take up to a half and hour (in my experience), to let it dry enough to work with.

If you leave like this more than a day or two with out mixing in, the ink could be rehydrated and become sticky again, just so you know.

I use and mix everything I do with ink as fast as I can.

When mixing colors with alcohol ink, try not to make more color than you need because the alcohol tends dry and keep drying the raw clay out more and more.

#CernitHere I have covered the Gold metallic 2”x2” tile with Lime Green Piñata and the one on the left with Baja blue Piñata ink.

It took about ten minutes to dry on a pouring rain day where I live.

But depending on your climate and ambient temp it could take up to a half and hour (in my experience), to let it dry enough to work with.

If you leave like this more than a day or two with out mixing in, the ink could be rehydrated and become sticky again, just so you know.

I use and mix everything I do with ink as fast as I can.

When mixing colors with alcohol ink, try not to make more color than you need because the alcohol tends dry and keep drying the raw clay out more and more.

I have placed my finger on the lime green Piñata to see if it comes back on my finger. It does a little here, I waited a little longer at that point.

There is definitely a difference in the way the ink looks on the clay after drying. See if you notice that difference. That way you will have an idea of when they are dry enough.

Fold the clay sheet in half when the ink is dry enough! Mix in ink to change the color.

Here is another experiment using a similar sheet of a lime green (new) translucent color to the gold metallic.

Here you can see the result of the lime green translucent above the sheet in my hand. That one is the Baja Blue Piñata sheet.

And the sheet t the right of my hand is Lime Green Piñata ink, it is darker than the translucent clay sheet.

Now mix in the Baja Blue ink!

Oh this is something I love a lot about this mixing ink thing and will stop here with my sheet sometimes for another ink crackle technique. to use with the rest of my veneers.

You might find this a lot of fun as well.

This will work with all the metallic colors and looks great.

Here are the things I have mixed in. All sheets are completely cured!

Out of all my experiments here, this one is my favorite! Baja Blue Piñata.

We do carry this product as well, it can be purchased through all of our stores. We do combine orders from all of our on line stores.

Look at the reflection! ❤️

I just love greens I think! Lol!

The lime green Piñata is a little more subtle. You could also add more ink to the sheet and mix that in also for a darker version of this one.

This one was a little weak to me, but I loved every the way it looks.

I think I could all the way up to a 3 to get me mix on this one.

3 parts Translucent lime green to 1 part of gold metallic! I will try and remember to do it later.

This is the translucent lime green and gold metallic! This works for me even though is subtle and looks slightly brassy, but this technique shows off the color well. So really, nothing is a mistake!

And here is straight gold with a small ripple cut design in it.

But you can see how it compares to the other mixed colors here!

#Cernit

❤️

Marie Segal

Have fun!

Silver metallic has a completely different look!

More later.

05
Sep
18

Here is your next installment Tutorial from the Cernit company and GHIA

I love being able to share these, Thank you Cernit and Ghia for giving me these to share with everyone.

Enjoy!

❤️

Marie


16
Apr
18

A tutorial from Clay and Paint in Belgium

Clay and Paint (Cernit) company sends me tutorials to share. I have been a little overwhelmed with my life and learning another thing just seemed too much for me at the time!

I got in to my blogs and everything had drastically changed in my blog world. All the things that I had gotten so good at had completely changed.

My brain just said no!

Well I am trying again, if you are willing to bear with me, I will get this stuff again!

Anyway here I go!

Enjoy!

Marie

30
Oct
11

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 2

This tutorial post is continued from

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Spooky fish skeleton that is not just for Halloween.

At least that is what I think anyway.

I love this cane.

I hope you have fun making it too.

You will need:

Black Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain Cernit

Biscuit Cernit

Clay slicing blade

Clay machine

Ruler if you wish

I mixed the black clay with Biscuit and the white clay with porcelain in equal parts

Condition and roll out the black in to a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine.

This is the last picture from part 1 here

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Add a sheet of white to the center of the cut on one side. The sheet will be rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting.

Put the stack back together with the white sheet in the middle…

Roll a 1/2″ coil of the white clay and press in to a triangle with your thumb and forefinger.

Add the triangle point up to the fish bones. Like this.

Roll a 3/4″ coil of black.

Press that coil into a triangle too.

Make the points of the triangle pretty sharp.

Trim the triangle black piece to fit the stack of rib bones.

Cut that triangle piece in half.

Make the points even sharper if you have too.

Add one half to one side of the tail and the other half to the other side of the tail. Press in to the tail evenly.

Add a sheet of black clay rolled out on the thickest setting in the pasta machine to the bottom of the tail.

Like this!

Roll a 1″ coil of white clay and trim to the length of the stack of bones and tail.

Press this in to a triangle shape and see if it is the same size as the stack of bones and tail.

Cut straight down and cut off one point of the triangle.

Like so!

Place a bamboo skewer or brass rod on the cut side of the big triangle on the top 1/3 of the triangle.

Press the rod gently in to the triangle.

Add the other cut sections right back to the triangle with the brass rod still in place.

Form the 2nd cut half around the rod to form a half circle cell in the both pieces of the triangle.

Peel the one section off the other section and remove the brass rod.

Roll a coil of black clay the size of the brass rod about 1/8″ and place in the channel of the big part of the white triangle.

Cut off the black coil so it is the length of the white triangle piece.

Place the smaller section of the triangle together with the larger one leaving the black coil inside.

This will be the eye for the fish bone cane.

Using your blade again cut into the opposite side of the cane at more of an angle. Cut all the way through to the bottom edge of the white triangle.

Like so.

Pull off the small section with never changing the orientation of the pieces.

Roll out some black clay on the 3rd thickest setting and place a strip about 1/4″ in width on the length of the small cut off white piece of the larger triangle.

This piece will slide under the bigger white piece of the triangle, so the black strip will go along the outside edge of the small piece.

Like so!

Using your thumb and forefinger compact everything together. Shaping back in to a triangle and pressing the small piece with the black together with the large piece of the triangle as if it is one piece.

Place the triangle head in the center of the bones on the stack.

Roll a black coil that is 1 1/8″ in diameter and the length of the stack of fish bones.

Press in to a triangle shape and cut the pieces in half.

Make the points of the triangle more defined.

Place one half on each side of the head of the fish.

Wrap all sides with a sheet of black rolled out on the thickest setting.

Reduce by compressing all sides one at a time with the palm of your hand and then flipping the cane from end to end and compressing all 4 sides of the cane again.

Repeat this slowly and gently until the cane is smaller by half the size.

It is best to be more forceful in the center of the cane to force the inside of the cane out.

As Katherine Dewey once told me “Oh, you are pressing on the “x” and the “y” axis which forces the “z” out through the center”.

EXACTLY!

This is the inside of that cane using that method!

Enjoy and have a safe and fun Halloween!

Boos and hisses!

26
Oct
11

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Mrs. B is extending the giveaway for the bat and pumpkin cupcake necklace I made giveaway until the 1st of November so if you still want a chance you can hop on over there and add your name to the bunch.

http://www.confessionsofapagansoccermom.com/2011/10/giveaway-from-marie-segals-art-from-my.html

You can see the necklace in the picture below the cat picture.

Thank you for your votes on the Fave Crafts Blog Hop. I did not win, but I feel great about bringing a ton of new people and unique votes to their web page and I could not have done it with out all of you. Blessings all over all of you.

Spooky fish skeleton that is not just for Halloween.

At least that is what I think anyway.

I love this cane.

I hope you have fun making it too.

You will need:

Black Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain Cernit

Biscuit Cernit

Clay slicing blade

Clay machine

Ruler if you wish

I mixed the black clay with Biscuit and the white clay with porcelain in equal parts

Condition and roll out the black in to a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine.

I cut five sheets in black 2 1/8″ by 1 1/2″.

Roll the white clay out on the 3rd thickest setting.

We will cut down the white sheets to size but these are a great size to start with.

Cut out 5 sheets of the opaque white 2 1/8″ by 1 1/2″.  You can use a black sheet as a template.

Cut off 1/8″ from each side of the long side of the white sheet.

Lay a black sheet down and place this white sheet in the very middle of it.

Take another sheet of black the same size as the ones above and rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting like the white sheets above and cut off 1/8″ from the long side.

Place the black strips on the side of the white sheet on both sides.

It will be like there is a whole sheet that is 2 1/8″ by 1 1/2″.

Add one of the 5 black sheets that you cut in the beginning to the stack above.

It will look like this from the side.

Cut off a little strip that is a bit bigger than the first ones ( 1/4″) you cut. Do this from both sides of the sheet.

Place in the middle of the sheet of black that you just placed on the stack.

Cut off strips the same size as the ones you just cut off of the white sheet out of the black clay rolled out on the third thickest setting.

It will look like this.

Add another one of the first black sheets that were cut.

Cut off a strip on each side of one of the white sheets that you cut before, these strips will be a little bit bigger than the last strips.

Add the white sheet that is left to the stack in the middle.

Add strips of black clay rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting to the sides of the white sheet.

Then add another one of the first black sheets that you cut in the beginning.

Cut a bigger strip from each side of the next sheet of white.

Add the white sheet to the stack in the middle of the stack.

Add black strips to the sides of the  white sheet.

Add one of the original cut sheets of black to the stack.

You can guess what happens with the next white sheet right? I knew you could.

Cut strips on both sides of the white strip that are bigger than the last strips and add that to the stack.

Add black strips to each side of the white sheet.

Stand the cane stack on the end like you see it and cut through the center of all of the sheets.

Here is another view.

Add a sheet of white to the center of the cut on one side. The sheet will be rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting.

Put the stack back together with the white sheet in the middle…

Stay tuned for part 2.

27
Aug
11

Atomic age Influence votive holder

While you are reading this I am escaping from home to go hang out with my friend Jodi and talk to an adult, craft until my fingers hurt, and stay up crazy hours. I am expecting to have a good time.

We are going to make some books ;-D

It is hot here, kind of cloudy and humid, I do not feel like doing anything. It is 99 degrees here and almost 4 pm on friday the 26th, crazy! 

I will talk to you all on Monday have a great weekend.

Be safe and be well.

Make the canes from the Black and white tutorials.

Continued from Part 1:

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/08/black-and-white-canes-2-atomic-age.html
and Part 2:
http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/08/black-and-white-canes-2-atomic-age_09.html
and Part 3:
http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/08/black-and-white-canes-2-atomic-age_14.html

Save any pieces from the making of the canes that you have left over. We will use those.

You will need:

clay slicing blade

glass votive holder

Canes from tutorials

Start with the sputnik cane or I guess it could be a stylized dandelion, well whatever you want to call it.

Slice off the slices about 1/16″ thick and place around the top of the glass.

Do not press on just place.

When you have them spaced evenly with about an 1/8″ between all of them. 

Press into place. 

Here is a better view.

Add the second cane.

Place those below the others.

Press on firmly.

These are from the second cane and are left over.

Slice off some slices and round them a little with your fingers.

Place one of those between the big circles at the top of the rim of the votive holder.

Now I have added the pieces left over from the dandelion cane and placed those between the rectangle canes.

I added some of the spiral, basically I

am building a net of canes around the top of the glass. I can have small open areas as long as all of the canes are connected together.

I rolled the spiral cane down to about 1/4″ and added one to each of the bottoms of the rectangles.

Bake in a pre-heated 275 degree oven for 1/2 hour, shut off oven, and let cool in the oven.

Add a votive and you are good to go!

22
May
11

African Trade beads-part 12 Shinning Star part c

This is the 3rd installment of the shinning star cane.

You can find part a here

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/05/african-trade-beads-part-12-shinning.html

You can find part b here

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/05/african-trade-beads-part-12-shinning_18.html

You will need:

Clay Machine

Clay slicing blade-SB

Red Cernit

Yellow Cernit

Blue Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Green Cernit

Porcelain White Cernit

Ruler if you need it

Middle cutter in the Makin’s clay Star set M36006

Knitting needle 3 to 4mm

All links above lead to my husband’s on-line store the www.clayfactory.net

Thank you so much for looking.

This is the picture and the instructions from the last part b http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/05/african-trade-beads-part-12-shinning_18.html

Trim off the excess, if there is any.

Take the conditioned blue clay and roll it out in your clay machine on the thickest setting.

Trim the leading edge of the sheet for a straight edge. Lie the cane on top of that edge.

Trim the side to match the size of the cane length.

Roll up the cane in the sheet and then roll the leading edge over on top of the sheet on the other side of the cane and gently make a mark on that sheet.

Cut with the clay slicing blade just inside of the mark that you have made. Roll the cane up in that sheet. the edges should meet up.

You do not have to smooth and mess with the seam more than pressing the edges together.

Roll out some of the conditioned yellow and fold the sheet in half to double the thickness.

Do the same thing with some of the conditioned red clay.

Cut the yellow sheet to the width of the cane center and then use the yellow sheet to measure the red one.

I added more of the porcelain to the green here. I used the same mixed that I used in this cane here

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/04/african-trade-beads-part-11.html

Double the green clay as you did with the red and the yellow and then cut to the same size as the yellow and red sheets.

Trim the end to the other sheets.

Trim the sides to match those edges.

The piece that you see trimmed off is the folds of all the sheets. I did this so I have a straight edge.

I then made my first cut which is about 3/16″ in thickness.

Cut down and drag the blade forward with the clay piece against the blade and on it.

Use the slice to measure the width of the next slice and then drag the blade forward again and stick the next slice to it. Measure and cut again. Do this for about four slices or more if you can

;-O

It is not required though, you can add one section at a time. ;-D

Lay the slices in the repeating pattern against the cane center. Wrap around cane.

If this is what you end up with match the bottom edges of the slices together and then…

Turn the cane on its side and press the two matching slices in to place.

Press a little waist in to the cane by squeezing with the your thumb and forefinger and then turn a little and squeezing again.

Turn the cane and press moving upward in a circle a little press at a time.

See the center of the end of the cane moving out, this is right.

You can squeeze like this too, turning and squeezing to the end of the cane.

Turn the cane over and start in the middle again and work your way out to the other end of the cane.

When you have reduced it this way to half of the diameter it was, roll on the surface of the table of work surface.

If the cane looks rough on the outside like this you have probably done a good job and the inside will be nice and straight.

When you roll the cane you will start in the center of the coil and roll with both hands all the way to the tip of your fingers and then all of the way back past the palm of your hand in one smooth move while moving your hands away from each other.

Remember to move slowly and to make sure the cane rotates over 180 degrees when you roll. Do not make short movements it will not make a smooth coil, it will put in little dents from your fingers. The movement is smooth and fluid.

Roll down to about 3/4″ and roll the blade and the cane forward at the same time to cut in the center.

You can refer back to the other canes in this series to see how that is and the description that comes with them.

Tah Dah!!! Stars.




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