Posts Tagged ‘instruction

27
Mar
19

Experiment #8

Ok experiment #8, unedited, except for rotation and cropping for size, taken in mostly natural light that was changing constantly and photographed with my iPhone.

Clayfactory.net/Cernit

❤️

Marie Segal

For your understanding and viewing pleasure:

The Colors of Cernit translucent mixes from Experiment #7

baked and unbaked.

#cernit #mariesegal

Clayfactory.net/cernit

Bordeaux Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalRuby Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalOrange Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalAmber Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalLime Green Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalEmerald Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalTurquoise Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalSapphire Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegalViolet Translucent Cernit baked left hand side, raw uncured clay right side, top mixed with translucent glitter white, middle mixed with translucent glitter silver and the bottom be is mixed with translucent glitter gold

#cernit #mariesegal

23
Mar
19

The 7th experiment with Cernit polymer clay

This is the 7th experiment: mixing all the glitter translucent’s into all the colored Translucent colors.

I have 12 translucent colors now, plus the clear white Translucent. The new colors are Bordeaux, Orange, Lime green, glitter silver, glitter gold, and glitter white.

Clayfactory.net/Cernit

There is the ripple bead I did the video for, it looks great on these beads. There are solid color translucent disks in between the three new translucent glitter colors.

Starting on the top left side, beginning with Bordeaux and ending in violet translucent.

In each color section the top one on the left in Bordeaux mixed with white glitter, then silver, then gold.

So the little flat disks are the translucent color with nothing in it so you can see how it bakes up and how different it looks using the glitters in each of the colors.

❤️

Marie

#Cernit

21
Mar
19

A quick little bead technique, by Marie Segal

Here is a quick little bead technique, I am working with glitter colors of clay, mixing them with all the translucents.

I am making a color necklace so I can see what each glitter translucent does in other translucent’s.

❤️

Marie

#Cernit

07
Mar
19

The 4th experiment Tute

Okay here is the 4th experiment! Coloring the standard gold metallic clay to make other metallic colors. I am going to do few so hang in there! This is using Piñata inks because they dry on the surface of the clay rapidly. I have great luck with these inks and I need for them to be completely alcohol based only, nothing that extends working time in a ink is going to work the same way as these. Some of the current inks on the market are using these additives now. They are wonderful for other applications, but in my opinion, not so much for these ones coming up. I want it to dry fast so I can mix it in and I don’t have all over me, all my tools, pasta machine, and work surface. Cover the surface of the gold metallic raw clay 2”x 2” tile! Roll out on thickest setting in pasta machine. Cover each square clay tile with ink on surface dry. #Cernit

Okay here is the experiment! Coloring the standard gold clay to make more metallic colors.

I am going to do few here, so hang in there!

As for #1,#2,and #3, I will get those on here as soon as I can!

😁

#CernitThis is using Piñata inks because they dry on the surface of the clay rapidly.

I have great luck with these inks and I need them to be alcohol based only, nothing that extends working time.

Some of the current inks on the market are using different additives now to extend the working time.

I want it dry fast so I can mix it in and I don’t have all over me, all my tools, pasta machine, and work surface.

Cover the surface of the gold metallic raw clay 2”x 2” tile! Roll out on thickest setting in pasta machine.

Cover each square clay tile with ink on surface, let dry.Here I have covered the Gold metallic 2”x2” tile with Lime Green Piñata and the one on the left with Baja blue Piñata ink.

It took about ten minutes to dry on a pouring rain day where I live.

But depending on your climate and ambient temp it could take up to a half and hour (in my experience), to let it dry enough to work with.

If you leave like this more than a day or two with out mixing in, the ink could be rehydrated and become sticky again, just so you know.

I use and mix everything I do with ink as fast as I can.

When mixing colors with alcohol ink, try not to make more color than you need because the alcohol tends dry and keep drying the raw clay out more and more.

#CernitHere I have covered the Gold metallic 2”x2” tile with Lime Green Piñata and the one on the left with Baja blue Piñata ink.

It took about ten minutes to dry on a pouring rain day where I live.

But depending on your climate and ambient temp it could take up to a half and hour (in my experience), to let it dry enough to work with.

If you leave like this more than a day or two with out mixing in, the ink could be rehydrated and become sticky again, just so you know.

I use and mix everything I do with ink as fast as I can.

When mixing colors with alcohol ink, try not to make more color than you need because the alcohol tends dry and keep drying the raw clay out more and more.

I have placed my finger on the lime green Piñata to see if it comes back on my finger. It does a little here, I waited a little longer at that point.

There is definitely a difference in the way the ink looks on the clay after drying. See if you notice that difference. That way you will have an idea of when they are dry enough.

Fold the clay sheet in half when the ink is dry enough! Mix in ink to change the color.

Here is another experiment using a similar sheet of a lime green (new) translucent color to the gold metallic.

Here you can see the result of the lime green translucent above the sheet in my hand. That one is the Baja Blue Piñata sheet.

And the sheet t the right of my hand is Lime Green Piñata ink, it is darker than the translucent clay sheet.

Now mix in the Baja Blue ink!

Oh this is something I love a lot about this mixing ink thing and will stop here with my sheet sometimes for another ink crackle technique. to use with the rest of my veneers.

You might find this a lot of fun as well.

This will work with all the metallic colors and looks great.

Here are the things I have mixed in. All sheets are completely cured!

Out of all my experiments here, this one is my favorite! Baja Blue Piñata.

We do carry this product as well, it can be purchased through all of our stores. We do combine orders from all of our on line stores.

Look at the reflection! ❤️

I just love greens I think! Lol!

The lime green Piñata is a little more subtle. You could also add more ink to the sheet and mix that in also for a darker version of this one.

This one was a little weak to me, but I loved every the way it looks.

I think I could all the way up to a 3 to get me mix on this one.

3 parts Translucent lime green to 1 part of gold metallic! I will try and remember to do it later.

This is the translucent lime green and gold metallic! This works for me even though is subtle and looks slightly brassy, but this technique shows off the color well. So really, nothing is a mistake!

And here is straight gold with a small ripple cut design in it.

But you can see how it compares to the other mixed colors here!

#Cernit

❤️

Marie Segal

Have fun!

Silver metallic has a completely different look!

More later.

05
Sep
18

Here is your next installment Tutorial from the Cernit company and GHIA

I love being able to share these, Thank you Cernit and Ghia for giving me these to share with everyone.

Enjoy!

❤️

Marie


16
Apr
18

A tutorial from Clay and Paint in Belgium

Clay and Paint (Cernit) company sends me tutorials to share. I have been a little overwhelmed with my life and learning another thing just seemed too much for me at the time!

I got in to my blogs and everything had drastically changed in my blog world. All the things that I had gotten so good at had completely changed.

My brain just said no!

Well I am trying again, if you are willing to bear with me, I will get this stuff again!

Anyway here I go!

Enjoy!

Marie

30
Oct
11

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 2

This tutorial post is continued from

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Spooky fish skeleton that is not just for Halloween.

At least that is what I think anyway.

I love this cane.

I hope you have fun making it too.

You will need:

Black Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain Cernit

Biscuit Cernit

Clay slicing blade

Clay machine

Ruler if you wish

I mixed the black clay with Biscuit and the white clay with porcelain in equal parts

Condition and roll out the black in to a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine.

This is the last picture from part 1 here

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Add a sheet of white to the center of the cut on one side. The sheet will be rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting.

Put the stack back together with the white sheet in the middle…

Roll a 1/2″ coil of the white clay and press in to a triangle with your thumb and forefinger.

Add the triangle point up to the fish bones. Like this.

Roll a 3/4″ coil of black.

Press that coil into a triangle too.

Make the points of the triangle pretty sharp.

Trim the triangle black piece to fit the stack of rib bones.

Cut that triangle piece in half.

Make the points even sharper if you have too.

Add one half to one side of the tail and the other half to the other side of the tail. Press in to the tail evenly.

Add a sheet of black clay rolled out on the thickest setting in the pasta machine to the bottom of the tail.

Like this!

Roll a 1″ coil of white clay and trim to the length of the stack of bones and tail.

Press this in to a triangle shape and see if it is the same size as the stack of bones and tail.

Cut straight down and cut off one point of the triangle.

Like so!

Place a bamboo skewer or brass rod on the cut side of the big triangle on the top 1/3 of the triangle.

Press the rod gently in to the triangle.

Add the other cut sections right back to the triangle with the brass rod still in place.

Form the 2nd cut half around the rod to form a half circle cell in the both pieces of the triangle.

Peel the one section off the other section and remove the brass rod.

Roll a coil of black clay the size of the brass rod about 1/8″ and place in the channel of the big part of the white triangle.

Cut off the black coil so it is the length of the white triangle piece.

Place the smaller section of the triangle together with the larger one leaving the black coil inside.

This will be the eye for the fish bone cane.

Using your blade again cut into the opposite side of the cane at more of an angle. Cut all the way through to the bottom edge of the white triangle.

Like so.

Pull off the small section with never changing the orientation of the pieces.

Roll out some black clay on the 3rd thickest setting and place a strip about 1/4″ in width on the length of the small cut off white piece of the larger triangle.

This piece will slide under the bigger white piece of the triangle, so the black strip will go along the outside edge of the small piece.

Like so!

Using your thumb and forefinger compact everything together. Shaping back in to a triangle and pressing the small piece with the black together with the large piece of the triangle as if it is one piece.

Place the triangle head in the center of the bones on the stack.

Roll a black coil that is 1 1/8″ in diameter and the length of the stack of fish bones.

Press in to a triangle shape and cut the pieces in half.

Make the points of the triangle more defined.

Place one half on each side of the head of the fish.

Wrap all sides with a sheet of black rolled out on the thickest setting.

Reduce by compressing all sides one at a time with the palm of your hand and then flipping the cane from end to end and compressing all 4 sides of the cane again.

Repeat this slowly and gently until the cane is smaller by half the size.

It is best to be more forceful in the center of the cane to force the inside of the cane out.

As Katherine Dewey once told me “Oh, you are pressing on the “x” and the “y” axis which forces the “z” out through the center”.

EXACTLY!

This is the inside of that cane using that method!

Enjoy and have a safe and fun Halloween!

Boos and hisses!




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