Posts Tagged ‘Do it yourself

21
Mar
19

A quick little bead technique, by Marie Segal

Here is a quick little bead technique, I am working with glitter colors of clay, mixing them with all the translucents.

I am making a color necklace so I can see what each glitter translucent does in other translucent’s.

❤️

Marie

#Cernit

07
Mar
19

The 4th experiment Tute

Okay here is the 4th experiment! Coloring the standard gold metallic clay to make other metallic colors. I am going to do few so hang in there! This is using Piñata inks because they dry on the surface of the clay rapidly. I have great luck with these inks and I need for them to be completely alcohol based only, nothing that extends working time in a ink is going to work the same way as these. Some of the current inks on the market are using these additives now. They are wonderful for other applications, but in my opinion, not so much for these ones coming up. I want it to dry fast so I can mix it in and I don’t have all over me, all my tools, pasta machine, and work surface. Cover the surface of the gold metallic raw clay 2”x 2” tile! Roll out on thickest setting in pasta machine. Cover each square clay tile with ink on surface dry. #Cernit

Okay here is the experiment! Coloring the standard gold clay to make more metallic colors.

I am going to do few here, so hang in there!

As for #1,#2,and #3, I will get those on here as soon as I can!

😁

#CernitThis is using Piñata inks because they dry on the surface of the clay rapidly.

I have great luck with these inks and I need them to be alcohol based only, nothing that extends working time.

Some of the current inks on the market are using different additives now to extend the working time.

I want it dry fast so I can mix it in and I don’t have all over me, all my tools, pasta machine, and work surface.

Cover the surface of the gold metallic raw clay 2”x 2” tile! Roll out on thickest setting in pasta machine.

Cover each square clay tile with ink on surface, let dry.Here I have covered the Gold metallic 2”x2” tile with Lime Green Piñata and the one on the left with Baja blue Piñata ink.

It took about ten minutes to dry on a pouring rain day where I live.

But depending on your climate and ambient temp it could take up to a half and hour (in my experience), to let it dry enough to work with.

If you leave like this more than a day or two with out mixing in, the ink could be rehydrated and become sticky again, just so you know.

I use and mix everything I do with ink as fast as I can.

When mixing colors with alcohol ink, try not to make more color than you need because the alcohol tends dry and keep drying the raw clay out more and more.

#CernitHere I have covered the Gold metallic 2”x2” tile with Lime Green Piñata and the one on the left with Baja blue Piñata ink.

It took about ten minutes to dry on a pouring rain day where I live.

But depending on your climate and ambient temp it could take up to a half and hour (in my experience), to let it dry enough to work with.

If you leave like this more than a day or two with out mixing in, the ink could be rehydrated and become sticky again, just so you know.

I use and mix everything I do with ink as fast as I can.

When mixing colors with alcohol ink, try not to make more color than you need because the alcohol tends dry and keep drying the raw clay out more and more.

I have placed my finger on the lime green Piñata to see if it comes back on my finger. It does a little here, I waited a little longer at that point.

There is definitely a difference in the way the ink looks on the clay after drying. See if you notice that difference. That way you will have an idea of when they are dry enough.

Fold the clay sheet in half when the ink is dry enough! Mix in ink to change the color.

Here is another experiment using a similar sheet of a lime green (new) translucent color to the gold metallic.

Here you can see the result of the lime green translucent above the sheet in my hand. That one is the Baja Blue Piñata sheet.

And the sheet t the right of my hand is Lime Green Piñata ink, it is darker than the translucent clay sheet.

Now mix in the Baja Blue ink!

Oh this is something I love a lot about this mixing ink thing and will stop here with my sheet sometimes for another ink crackle technique. to use with the rest of my veneers.

You might find this a lot of fun as well.

This will work with all the metallic colors and looks great.

Here are the things I have mixed in. All sheets are completely cured!

Out of all my experiments here, this one is my favorite! Baja Blue Piñata.

We do carry this product as well, it can be purchased through all of our stores. We do combine orders from all of our on line stores.

Look at the reflection! ❤️

I just love greens I think! Lol!

The lime green Piñata is a little more subtle. You could also add more ink to the sheet and mix that in also for a darker version of this one.

This one was a little weak to me, but I loved every the way it looks.

I think I could all the way up to a 3 to get me mix on this one.

3 parts Translucent lime green to 1 part of gold metallic! I will try and remember to do it later.

This is the translucent lime green and gold metallic! This works for me even though is subtle and looks slightly brassy, but this technique shows off the color well. So really, nothing is a mistake!

And here is straight gold with a small ripple cut design in it.

But you can see how it compares to the other mixed colors here!

#Cernit

❤️

Marie Segal

Have fun!

Silver metallic has a completely different look!

More later.

27
Aug
18

Another fabulous tutorial from The Cernit Company and GHIA!

A huge thanks to the people that make Cernit as well as Ghia for the new tutorials.

I have a couple of old ones that haven’t been posted by me before.

So I will be sharing them weekly until I go through the back log.

I really like these a lot! And away we go!

Happy Monday, spread your kindness, the world needs yours! ❤️

We carry this Cernit clay and those fabulous texture sheets as well!

Main index page for Cernit in all sizes and colors with links to all the pages of Cernit

http://clayfactory.net/cernit/index.html

Texture mats used are Peacock and Geometrics.

And this is the direct page for the texture Mats from the Cernit company

http://clayfactory.net/cernit/texture-Sheet-Cernit.html

*oh and on a side note, I bake all of my pieces in a home oven, on a a cardboard box piece on my tray and tented with foil, in a pre-heated 275 F degree oven for 40 minutes. I then remove hot from the oven and plunge in to icy cold water until the pieces are completely cool!

❤️

Marie

16
Apr
18

A tutorial from Clay and Paint in Belgium

Clay and Paint (Cernit) company sends me tutorials to share. I have been a little overwhelmed with my life and learning another thing just seemed too much for me at the time!

I got in to my blogs and everything had drastically changed in my blog world. All the things that I had gotten so good at had completely changed.

My brain just said no!

Well I am trying again, if you are willing to bear with me, I will get this stuff again!

Anyway here I go!

Enjoy!

Marie

30
Oct
11

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 2

This tutorial post is continued from

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Spooky fish skeleton that is not just for Halloween.

At least that is what I think anyway.

I love this cane.

I hope you have fun making it too.

You will need:

Black Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain Cernit

Biscuit Cernit

Clay slicing blade

Clay machine

Ruler if you wish

I mixed the black clay with Biscuit and the white clay with porcelain in equal parts

Condition and roll out the black in to a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine.

This is the last picture from part 1 here

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Add a sheet of white to the center of the cut on one side. The sheet will be rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting.

Put the stack back together with the white sheet in the middle…

Roll a 1/2″ coil of the white clay and press in to a triangle with your thumb and forefinger.

Add the triangle point up to the fish bones. Like this.

Roll a 3/4″ coil of black.

Press that coil into a triangle too.

Make the points of the triangle pretty sharp.

Trim the triangle black piece to fit the stack of rib bones.

Cut that triangle piece in half.

Make the points even sharper if you have too.

Add one half to one side of the tail and the other half to the other side of the tail. Press in to the tail evenly.

Add a sheet of black clay rolled out on the thickest setting in the pasta machine to the bottom of the tail.

Like this!

Roll a 1″ coil of white clay and trim to the length of the stack of bones and tail.

Press this in to a triangle shape and see if it is the same size as the stack of bones and tail.

Cut straight down and cut off one point of the triangle.

Like so!

Place a bamboo skewer or brass rod on the cut side of the big triangle on the top 1/3 of the triangle.

Press the rod gently in to the triangle.

Add the other cut sections right back to the triangle with the brass rod still in place.

Form the 2nd cut half around the rod to form a half circle cell in the both pieces of the triangle.

Peel the one section off the other section and remove the brass rod.

Roll a coil of black clay the size of the brass rod about 1/8″ and place in the channel of the big part of the white triangle.

Cut off the black coil so it is the length of the white triangle piece.

Place the smaller section of the triangle together with the larger one leaving the black coil inside.

This will be the eye for the fish bone cane.

Using your blade again cut into the opposite side of the cane at more of an angle. Cut all the way through to the bottom edge of the white triangle.

Like so.

Pull off the small section with never changing the orientation of the pieces.

Roll out some black clay on the 3rd thickest setting and place a strip about 1/4″ in width on the length of the small cut off white piece of the larger triangle.

This piece will slide under the bigger white piece of the triangle, so the black strip will go along the outside edge of the small piece.

Like so!

Using your thumb and forefinger compact everything together. Shaping back in to a triangle and pressing the small piece with the black together with the large piece of the triangle as if it is one piece.

Place the triangle head in the center of the bones on the stack.

Roll a black coil that is 1 1/8″ in diameter and the length of the stack of fish bones.

Press in to a triangle shape and cut the pieces in half.

Make the points of the triangle more defined.

Place one half on each side of the head of the fish.

Wrap all sides with a sheet of black rolled out on the thickest setting.

Reduce by compressing all sides one at a time with the palm of your hand and then flipping the cane from end to end and compressing all 4 sides of the cane again.

Repeat this slowly and gently until the cane is smaller by half the size.

It is best to be more forceful in the center of the cane to force the inside of the cane out.

As Katherine Dewey once told me “Oh, you are pressing on the “x” and the “y” axis which forces the “z” out through the center”.

EXACTLY!

This is the inside of that cane using that method!

Enjoy and have a safe and fun Halloween!

Boos and hisses!

26
Oct
11

Dem bones, dem bones, dem fish bones! Part 1

Mrs. B is extending the giveaway for the bat and pumpkin cupcake necklace I made giveaway until the 1st of November so if you still want a chance you can hop on over there and add your name to the bunch.

http://www.confessionsofapagansoccermom.com/2011/10/giveaway-from-marie-segals-art-from-my.html

You can see the necklace in the picture below the cat picture.

Thank you for your votes on the Fave Crafts Blog Hop. I did not win, but I feel great about bringing a ton of new people and unique votes to their web page and I could not have done it with out all of you. Blessings all over all of you.

Spooky fish skeleton that is not just for Halloween.

At least that is what I think anyway.

I love this cane.

I hope you have fun making it too.

You will need:

Black Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain Cernit

Biscuit Cernit

Clay slicing blade

Clay machine

Ruler if you wish

I mixed the black clay with Biscuit and the white clay with porcelain in equal parts

Condition and roll out the black in to a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine.

I cut five sheets in black 2 1/8″ by 1 1/2″.

Roll the white clay out on the 3rd thickest setting.

We will cut down the white sheets to size but these are a great size to start with.

Cut out 5 sheets of the opaque white 2 1/8″ by 1 1/2″.  You can use a black sheet as a template.

Cut off 1/8″ from each side of the long side of the white sheet.

Lay a black sheet down and place this white sheet in the very middle of it.

Take another sheet of black the same size as the ones above and rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting like the white sheets above and cut off 1/8″ from the long side.

Place the black strips on the side of the white sheet on both sides.

It will be like there is a whole sheet that is 2 1/8″ by 1 1/2″.

Add one of the 5 black sheets that you cut in the beginning to the stack above.

It will look like this from the side.

Cut off a little strip that is a bit bigger than the first ones ( 1/4″) you cut. Do this from both sides of the sheet.

Place in the middle of the sheet of black that you just placed on the stack.

Cut off strips the same size as the ones you just cut off of the white sheet out of the black clay rolled out on the third thickest setting.

It will look like this.

Add another one of the first black sheets that were cut.

Cut off a strip on each side of one of the white sheets that you cut before, these strips will be a little bit bigger than the last strips.

Add the white sheet that is left to the stack in the middle.

Add strips of black clay rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting to the sides of the white sheet.

Then add another one of the first black sheets that you cut in the beginning.

Cut a bigger strip from each side of the next sheet of white.

Add the white sheet to the stack in the middle of the stack.

Add black strips to the sides of the  white sheet.

Add one of the original cut sheets of black to the stack.

You can guess what happens with the next white sheet right? I knew you could.

Cut strips on both sides of the white strip that are bigger than the last strips and add that to the stack.

Add black strips to each side of the white sheet.

Stand the cane stack on the end like you see it and cut through the center of all of the sheets.

Here is another view.

Add a sheet of white to the center of the cut on one side. The sheet will be rolled out on the 3rd thickest setting.

Put the stack back together with the white sheet in the middle…

Stay tuned for part 2.

14
Oct
11

Tin can pumpkin box part 1- DIY

I thought you would like to see how I make the can boxes.

Never throw another can away again.

LOL!!

You will need:

4 ounce Ortega chili can (You can use any can size but the cutters I am using are for the 4 ounce size can) to find the right circle cutters, put a cutter inside the lid top to see which cutter will work and then use the nest size up for lid top.

Cernit Clay in

Orange

Light Green

Gold

Caramel

Opaque white

Black

Poppy red

Yellow

Large block of Biscuit

1/2″ Oval Kemper cutter

3/16″ round Kemper cutter

1 1/8″ round cutter

2″ round cutter

2 1/2″ round cutter

2 3/4″ round cutter

Clay slicing blade

Knitting needle or bic stic pen

I mix all of my colors equally with the same amount of biscuit.

Condition to one color.

Cut off top of can with a side cutting can opener.

Put a thin layer of the Ultimate glue on the lid and the bottom of the inside of the can bottom and the top.

Roll out orange on the thickest setting.

Cut out 2 circles that fit in the top and the bottom of the can and the lid.

Place Orange clay circles in to the bottom and the top and start pressing gently in the center of the circles and working your way out to the edges to press out air bubbles. It will also push clay to the edges if you have a little bit smaller clay circle.

Now use the next cutter size up from the one you used to fill the top and the bottom and cut out one of those.

Place on top of the lid.

Press into the clay already in the lid and fold over the edge just slightly.

Roll out a strip of orange clay on the 3rd thickest setting and cut off the bottom for a straight edge.

Make sure it will wrap around the whole can. I forgot to measure it. ;-D

Place a layer of glue on to the surface of the can with your finger.

Cover the sides and the bottom edge.

Wrap around can and over leading edge to make a slight mark so you know where to cut the strip.

Press out air as you wrap around.

Cut just inside the line close to the can.

Match edges together and smooth with finger or tool.

Hold blade at an angle and trim around the top of the can.

See how blade is angled down and rotate the can and trim.

Even out the edge and press to the top of the can side.

Turn the can over and press the side clay to the bottom of the can clay.

I use a 1/8″ metal rod to make indents in the side of the can like the indents in the side of the pumpkin.

I make 3 close together for registrations marks.

Like so. Some of the lines do not have to go from the top to the bottom and can be just marks on the top side or the bottom side.

Using the rod again, place the lid on the can and mark from the side of the lid where a top mark on the can starts to…

The middle of the can.

You can see my three lines for registration already marked on the top of the lid.

All the top side marks continued on the top of the lid to the center of the lid.

Place you blade in to the side of the lid and gently pop off the can.

Take a 1″ ball of Opaque white and mix with a 1/2″ ball of caramel till one color.

Pinch off enough for a 1″ ball and roll till smooth.

Roll into a kind of bowling pin shape.

Flatten around the top edge on the smallest side of the “bowling pin”.

Put a Little dip in there.

Now flatten out the bottom.

Pull out little pinches of the bottom and roll between your fingers to lengthen.

I made five little fingers in the bottom all of varying lengths.

Place in the center of the lid and use the metal rod to mark up the sides of the stem.

I start in the dips between the little fingers and go up the side of the stem.

Stay tuned for part 2…




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