Archive for March, 2011

31
Mar
11

African Trade Beads- part 7 continued from part 6

This is a series of African trade bead primary patterns, this is part 7, which is also the continuation from part 6

you can see part 1 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-1.html

you can see part 2 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-2.html

you can see part 3 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-3.html

you can see part 4 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-4.html

you can see part 5 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-5.html

you can see part 6 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-6.html

As always click on pictures to make them larger.

You will need:

Flower canes already made

and the one made in part 3 http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-3.html

Clay Blade- SB

Bamboo Skewer- 2mm

Ruler (if you wish)

Needle Tool- PRO

1/2″ heart cutter-APC1H

5/8″ round cutter-APCAR

Links for products will lead to my Hubby’s store http://www.clayfactory.net/ 

 

Thank you for shopping at the Clay Factory, not just a clay store anymore.;-D

  

  

Cut a 1/4″ slice from the block that you made in part 6.

Press the clay slice gently to your work surface.

Start in the corner of one side, the side you want to start at is up to you.

Cut out a heart with the 1/2″ cutter.

Cut firmly to the work surface and pull back quickly the heart should stay in the sheet but be cut out.

Turn the cutter around and cut the next heart out and pull back quickly.

Cut out the whole sheet of hearts, as many as you can get out of it.

I got 5 out of this sheet.

There are the hearts. A couple stuck in the cutter and I took the cutter and placed the heart on a fresh piece of clay (I used the block I made, it is best to condition a fresh piece of clay and use that instead) and pulled back quickly and it pulled the heart out of the cutter a little.

You can also dip the cutter in water and then cut and it will come free. Do the water dip each time you cut one heart out.

Use the needle tool and drill the needle in to the top of the heart to poke the hole through to the bottom.

When the tip comes out the bottom drill the needle back out.

Turn the heart over and drill the needle in to the bottom hole you made with the needle.

Next:

You will need:

A little section of the original cane from part 3

You will need it to be 3/4″ in diameter.

5/8″ cutter

scrap clay from block you made in part 6

Slice off two thin slices.

Roll out your scrap clay on the thickest setting in your pasta machine. Cut out two rounds.

Roll them together into one ball.

Flatten out the slices a little with your thumb and forefinger.

Cover half of the ball with one slice.

Start on one side of the ball and match the other slice to the one you already added.

Pull the slice over to the other side and push it to match the slice that is already there.

Sometimes the slice will not match so I push the scrap clay in with my finger nail and push the edges of the slices together over it.

Once the edges are together, roll the ball gently at first and make it as round as you can.

“Drill” into the bead with the point of the skewer. I hold the bead in my hand.

Rotate the skewer and move in to the bead. 

You will see the bead start to bulge out on the other side, keep drilling until the point goes through barely.

Drill the skewer back out.

Turn the bead over and drill in to the hole on the coming out side, it will even out the hole on that side.

Drill the skewer back out.

Bake on a piece of corrugated cardboard box top and bake the bead sitting on the hole.

If you bake the bead sitting on the hole so that if there is a flat spot from settling while baking it will have another bead there when strung and will not be seen.

The next cane is fun. Coming in part 8!!

Have a great weekend everyone.

Love and huge hugs.

30
Mar
11

African Trade Beads- part 6

This is a series of African trade bead primary patterns, this is part 6,

you can see part 1 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-1.html

you can see part 2 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-2.html

you can see part 3 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-3.html

you can see part 4 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-4.html

you can see part 5 here,

 

Well, I am going to post this on a wednesday even though it is saved for Wonders. I do not feel bad doing this because it is a wonder I am still moving through this series.  I have taken and edited 100’s of pictures, given a lot of techniques, and I find, I am still scratching the surface here, so I continue.

As always click on pictures to make them larger.

You will need:

Flower canes already made

the one made in part 5 http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-5.html

and the one made in part 3 http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-3.html

Clay Blade– SB

Bamboo Skewer- 2mm

Ruler (if you wish)

Needle Tool– PRO

Links for products will lead to my Hubby’s store http://www.clayfactory.net/  

 

Thank you for shopping at the Clay Factory, not just a clay store anymore.;-D


Roll the cane from part 5 down to a little less than 3/8″.

Cut the cane piece in to 3/8″ pieces or as long as the are in diameter.

You can use the ruler to cut your beads or you can use the first cut bead to measure the others you cut.

Roll the bead gently with your finger and thumb to take off the high spots and round the bead.

Once you get it pretty round you can roll it faster in your palms.

Once the bead is round you can pierce the bead by drilling through one side with the needle tool.

You can see the needle starting to push out the bead on the opposite side.

Drill out the needle tool.

Turn the bead over to the opposite side and drill the needle tool in to the hole to even out the shape of the bead and round both holes out.

Even on both sides. Tah-dah!

Bake on a piece of corrugated cardboard box top and bake the bead sitting on the hole.

If you bake the bead sitting on the hole so that if there is a flat spot from settling while baking it will have another bead there when strung and will not be seen.

Next:

We are going to make a block of cane rods that can be used for making beads or for rolling out canes sheets for covering items.

You will need the cane from part 3

Roll it down to 3/8″ or a little under.

Cut the cane rods 2 1/4″ long.

Place 3 together.

Cut 3 more and stack them in the dips of the others.

Cut 3 more and stack in those dips.

This is them standing on the end of the canes.

Cut these in half.

Move the front half in to the left side. It will fit right in there like it was made to go there.

Like this.

I did not feel the cane was going to be long enough so I added another cane to the bottom right side continuing the pattern.

One to the middle and one to the top.

Stand the block on one of the ends.

Slide the blade down the outside of the top cane and the bottom one cutting the middle one in half. It will probably stick to your blade.

Move the cane half to the left side to make the straight sides.

The cane ends now become what I call the face of the block.

Lay it on the sides and compact the top and bottom of the block, not the face of the block, with the thumb mound of your palm.

Turn the block on the sides of the block and compact the canes together.

The first cut should just even the face and take off some of the bulging cane face.

Take another slice that is about 3/16″.

With your blade at an angle bevel one edge.

Then bevel the opposite edge.

The slice will look like this.

Lay your skewer in to the middle of this slice down the length.

Pull up the outside edges around the skewer.

Match the edges and close them around the skewer.

Push the edges down and press gently together.

Roll on the work surface to smooth the seam together all the way.

Grasp the whole length of the tube bead with your hand and break it loose from the skewer by twisting the whole thing gently.

It may even be out of shape or lumpy.

Roll again on your work surface to even it out.

Roll the blade and the skewer forward to trim the end of the bead off for a straight edge or end.

With the blade laying flat on the surface to measure your next bead length.

I have the sharp edge on the left side of the blade.

Rock the sharp edge up and roll the skewer and the blade forward to make the next cut. Always hold the blade straight up and down.

I cut as many beads (3/4″) as I can this way.

If I have a small section of bead left I cut small spacer beads.

Usually about 1/8″ to 3/16″ long.

By pressing gently on the bead (3/16″) with my thumb and forefinger I can bulge the sides out a little.

By taking one of the 3/4″ tubes I can make a nice barrel bead by pressing with my thumb and forefinger evenly in the middle slowly.

Here are the beads so far. I am stopping here.

I will continue with the rest of the beads in the next part.

Probably Thursday.

Ta ta for now!

28
Mar
11

Today is special, Happy Birthday!

Today is the day that two beautiful women were born 24 years apart. I am sure many more were born this day, but these two are special to me and it has been a little over a year since they both died.

A month and a half apart.

I would like to take a moment to remember them.

My Mother-in-Love, Rosalie, Happy Birthday Mom, we all miss you very much.

We are all doing pretty well and Madi says “hi”. She still remembers you.

Your son is doing very well. Look out for him please.

I miss you and I am learning.

Happy Birthday my dear blog friend Renee, I can not believe it has been a year already. Thank you for spending your precious time with me. Knowing you changed my whole life.

I miss you and I am learning.

I did not know until the end that these two ladies were born on the same day and when I found out it didn’t surprise me at all.

They were both very honest, good mothers, unique, teachers, and extremely loving.

Both of their names start with R.

They both died from breast cancer.

I will miss you both for the rest of my life.

Love and Kisses MOM.

Renee, I love you my pretty.

25
Mar
11

African Trade beads- part 5

Above is the bead that was shown in part 4, baked,and  antiqued with brown Ne-Opaque.

The pattern we are making in part 5 has the blue and

 white center and orange and yellow around the outside you can see it above

in the bead. 

This is a series of African trade bead primary patterns, this is part 5,

you can see part 1 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-1.html

you can see part 2 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-2.html

you can see part 3 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-3.html

you can see part 4 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-4.html

You will need:

Yellow Cernit

Poppy Red Cernit

Navy Blue Cernit

Opaque White Cernit

Porcelain White Cernit

Makin’s Professional Extruder

Clay Extruder Disks– set 1 and set 2

Makin’s Clay Machine

Clay Slicing Blade

Double ended Knitting needle- 1 1/2mm

Bamboo skewer

Links for products will lead to my Hubby’s store http://www.clayfactory.net/  

 

Thank you for shopping at the Clay Factory, not just a clay store anymore.;-D

I mix all of the colors (red, navy, and yellow) with equal amount of porcelain white and a 3/8″ ball of opaque white.

I mix the Opaque white separately with equal parts of the porcelain white.

I am going to use two disks in the clay extruder this time to change the shape of the disks available.

I am using the half circle from disk set 2

a that other one trapezoid (?) on the right from disk set 1

Place the Tall trapezoid shape into the end cap that goes on to the end of the extruder barrel. Add two tiny, tiny balls of the blue clay to the face of the disk and press them into place.

Place the half circle over the top of the balls of clay and the disks. Press the disk in place at the balls underneath with the flat end of the skewer.

Use the knitting needle to adjust the half circle gently so it is in the right place to cut off the top and the bottom of the tall trapezoid disk.

Like so.

Start with the blue and condition it well before adding it to the extruder barrel. Add it to the extruder barrel by rolling a coil of blue slightly smaller than the barrel of the extruder and the length of the extruder barrel.

Load the barrel and then screw on the cap.

Extrude the full barrel.

The slower you turn the less cracking you will get. It doesn’t seem to matter whether it cracks or not though in the canes.

Next condition some more blue and roll it in to a coil that is about 3″ long and trim both end flat so it is 2 1/2″ long. 

Make the coil 5/8″ in diameter.

Condition and roll out some of the opaque white clay on the thickest setting in your clay machine. Make the sheet about 3″ wide and at least 4″ long.

Bevel the leading edge with you blade.

Trim the edges so that the sheet is the same width as the coil of blue.

Roll the coil back and then away from you to pick up the leading edge.

Roll the blue coil up in the white and roll the sheet of white over on the other end of the sheet gently and then roll it back so you can see the mark.

Lean the blade back towards you and cut a beveled edge right before the line closest to the coil.

Roll up the coil and enclose the blue coil.

Meet the edges and smooth them down to the blue coil.

Take the blue extruded trapezoid coil and cut it to the length of the white wrapped blue coil.

Add the blue cut sections to the white wrapped coil.

Add them all the way around the coil.

Condition and roll out another sheet of Opaque white on the 4th thickest setting in your clay machine. Make the sheet the width of the center coil you are building.

Tuck the end of the sheet in to the dip between the extruded piece and attach it to one of the long trapezoids by rolling the point of the knitting needle against it gently.

Wrap it around a few of the extruded blue pieces.

With the knitting needle press it gently in to each dip of a few of the extruded blue pieces.

Continue to wrap and tuck a little at a time.

Trim off the end of the sheet to match the other end.

Press the just cut end of the sheet in to the dip.

Hold/cradle the cane you have made so far gently in your palm and press the indents a little further in with the knitting needle.

Flip the cane from end to end in your palm and press them in a little bit more all the way around again.

Condition some red and load up the barrel of the clay extruder and put the triangle that comes with the extruder set and extrude the full barrel as a triangle.

Place the triangle extrusions in to the dip around the cane.

Add the triangles to the cane vertically until you get a few of them on and then you can lay the cane on those added few triangles and add the rest.

Roll the cane gently on your work surface to place the triangles in and on the cane.

Condition some red and roll out a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine to wrap the cane with. 

Make the width of the sheet the same as the length of the cane 2 1/2″ by at least 6″.

I had to cut another sheet. I made this one too short in the photograph.

Wrap the cane as you have done with the solid sheets of clay before.

Condition some yellow clay and roll out a sheet on the thickest setting in your clay machine and then do that with the red too.

Make the red sheet 2 1/2″ wide by 5-6″ long and then cut the yellow one by laying the red sheet on top of it and measuring from the red sheet.

Do not mash the sheets together and then you be able to separate them if you have some left over after cutting your stripes.

Here the two sheets are together.

Using the clay slicing blade cut the sheets about 1/8″. Cut with the blade straight up and down and slide/pull the blade towards you so the cut piece sticks on your blade.

Pick up the blade with the cut piece sticking to it and lay it on top of the stack using it to measure the next cut. If you stand up and look over the top of your sheets it is easier to measure the cuts from the last cut.

I also use both hands for this, I only show one hand because I have to take pictures with one hand.

Look over the top of the blade and the sheets and then cut and slide/ pull the blade towards you.

  Do it again.

Cut and slide/pull as long as you can so you have a whole stripe sheet to wrap around your cane.

 Wrap that striped sheet around your cane and roll gently on the work surface to tack everything together.

Make sure that your ends of the striped sheet are not the same color.

You can force in another color so that two yellows or reds are not touching or you will have a wide stripe of one of those colors.

Grab the cane about 1″ below the end of the cane and squeeze the cane and turn it a little and squeeze it again and turn it a little and squeeze and turn it just a little.

You continue this way a little at a time while ascending to the top or the end of the cane.

Turn the cane over from end to end and start where the cane starts to bulge out and proceed to squeeze and turn a little, squeeze and turn a little, squeeze and turn a little, squeeze and turn a little, then move up the cane a little. Do this until you reach the other end of the cane.

Your cane should be about half the size then. It will be somewhat lumpy and bumpy until you get practiced at this. Even then it will be lumpy just not as drastic as in the beginning. It will still be fine.

The ends of the cane will bulge out a little too and that is OK.

Then roll the cane on the work surface gently, moving both of your palms from the center gently outward, and rotating the cane 360 plus degrees forward and backward.

Again, pretend you see my other hand in this picture, thumbs crossed over each other and then hands moving outwards as I roll forward and starting again in the middle as I roll backward.

It is best not to press really hard and best to let the work surface or table do most of the work.

Glide.

This cane is about 14-15″ in length and about 3/4″ in diameter and is nice and smooth from rolling.

Not short rolls, that adds lumps and an oval or non-circular shape to the cane, but long rolls that go from the tip of the fingers to the end of the palm and back.

Move the blade forward and roll the cane forward to cut the cane in half. Hold the blade straight up and down.

Tah-dah!!

23
Mar
11

Wednesday Wonder- OWOH pressie

I wonder how big the magnifying glass is that Amber Dawn works with?

I got this pressie from OWOH 2011 also, it came later because it was custom-made for me, see there is my name.

If you look at the picture without any other pieces or fingers or ruler there, it looks as if it might 2″ in diameter. So much detail.

The only thing that really gives away the size is the jump ring, but not really. 

With a penny, now you can see it.

It covers the penny. It is smaller though. 

Amber Dawn has a blog Inventive Soul here http://www.inventivesoul.blogspot.com/

So small.

She also has a wonderful Flickr site here http://www.flickr.com/photos/inventivesouls/

The jump ring looks huge here compared to the charm.

Amber Dawn also hosts International Charm day here http://www.internationalcharmday.blogspot.com/

It came like this in a 1″ button cover. It doesn’t fill it up.

I wonder!

Now you know why this, to me, qualifies as a Wednesday Wonder.

Thank you Amber Dawn, this amazes me and I adore it!

22
Mar
11

African Trade beads-part 4

This is a series of African trade bead primary patterns, this is part 4,

you can see part 1 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-1.html

you can see part 2 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-2.html

you can see part 3 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-3.html

My back is still kind of iffy. I have a hard time sitting at the computer or even using my daughters laptop on the couch. I was starting to feel better over the weekend and I think I did more than I should have and I am back at the beginning again.

We had a storm like crazy yesterday and the day before, waterfalls of water, yesterday morning it hailed, it is cold, sun peaks out once in a while, the wind is gusting, it is wicked weather.
So how about that for the first day of spring.

Happy Spring all of you! No matter what it looks like outside.

This is large tube bead made from the canes we have done so far and the new one coming up.

A little sneak peek.

You will need:

Black Cernit clay

2 or more canes- 5″ sections rolled down to 3/8″ in diameter

Clay Slicing blade

Bamboo skewer

Instructions for tube bead here http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2010/11/marie-tangle-beads.html

You will need to condition some black clay and make a tube bead of plain black Cernit clay.

Slice little sections of the canes, the slices are really 1/16″ maybe smaller than that.

The cane on the left is the next in the series.

Apply the cane slices one at a time down the tube bead in a row.

That is the next cane in the series, this is one of my favorites.

Apply the next cane slices in to the dip between the last cane slices.

Apply the next cane slice and the repeat the design if you only have three canes to slice.

if you have a lot of cane you need never repeat the rows.

Hold the bead and release the skewer from the clay and then roll gently again.

Once you have all the canes in place, roll the tube and the canes on your work surface to smooth the surface. I do not roll so much that the canes blend edges together. You can if you wish.

I love the way this looks though with the edges defined.

Now roll the bead and skewer forward while holding the blade straight and move it forward too. This does take practice. You will trim off the edge to make it straight. Trim the other side too.

Pick the side of the bead that appeals to you the most and hold the bead ends with your thumb and forefinger and bend both ends up into a curve.

Bake on a tray with box cardboard lining it.

Curved tube bead.

Next African cane pattern coming soon!

21
Mar
11

African Trade beads-part 3

This is a series of African trade bead primary patterns, this is part 3,

you can see part 1 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-1.html

you can see part 2 here,

http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2011/03/african-trade-beads-part-2.html

I am so sorry I didn’t get this up sooner, I have been flat on my back for a week. I guess I needed a break, because my back went out. I am starting to feel better now. YAY!!

I hope you all had a great weekend.

Please have a wonderful week and remember, if things get overwhelming, to stop for a minute and breathe deeply. Make something or hug a tree.

Here is part 3.

This has the cane we are going to make here

 and the last one made together in part 1,

both on this bead.

You will need:

 

double pointed knitting needle- I do not have the size but it is 1 1/2mm in diameter

Links for products will lead to my Hubby’s store www.clayfactory.net

Thank you for shopping at the Clay Factory, not just a clay store anymore.;-D

I mix all of the colors (red and yellow) with equal amount of porcelain white and a 3/8″ ball of opaque white.

I mix the Black and the Opaque white separately with equal parts of the porcelain white.

 

Here we go.

Roll out a coil that is 2″ long and 3/4″ in diameter.

Use the half circle disk that comes with your extruder set.

Place the disk in the end of the cap and screw out the handle and load the barrel of nice and newly conditioned poppy red. The softer it is the better it comes out of the end.

Load the barrel with red.

Extrude a tube of half circles.

This is shown with the cane coil you made above.

Cut sections 2″ long or the size of the main coil you made before.

Place them on to the center coil. Press them gently in to place. Set the next one right next to the last one. You do not have to smash them on.

Cover the center coil completely. I have 8 on here. If you stand the coil on its end. It is less likely to flatten the half circles.

Roll out a sheet of conditioned white on the 4th thickest setting in the Clay Machine.

It must be at least 2 1/2″ wide by at least 5 1/2″ long.

Place the center red coil on top of the sheet of white and trim the sheet on the sides to fit the center.

Cut the end where you lay the coil for a straight edge.

I lean the top of the blade towards the center red coil and cut the edge at an angle.

Roll the sheet of white up with the center coil inside and roll the leading edge over the far end of the sheet and back again towards yourself to make a mark on the sheet so you know where to cut.

Lean the top of the blade back towards you and the coil to bevel that edge and cut just inside the line or mark made on the sheet. The blade will be on the right side or before the mark you made.

Gently with your little finger run the side of your finger down the coil making a slight indentation in the outside of the coil to mark the dip between each petal.

Now, using the knitting needle point and define that line by “drawing” the line down the side of the cane with the point gently.

Hold the whole cane section with it cradled lightly in your palm and fingers.

Condition the black clay right before you load the barrel of the clay gun up and extrude a full barrel of the black clay.

Cut the extruded triangles to the same length as the flower you have built so far, 2″.

Place the points in the dips all the way around the flower.

Roll lightly on your work surface.

Roll out the conditioned black clay on the thickest setting in your clay machine and trim the edges to match the flower coil center of the cane and wrap a sheet of black around it and bevel the ends like you did above with the white sheet.

Roll the first leading edge of the sheet over the opposite end of the sheet and make a mark and cut just inside of the line closest to the center.

You can really see that mark here. 

Match the edges and close them up together. They should be very close if you do it right.

Covered.

Cover it again with the another sheet of the same thickness.

Condition and roll out a sheet of the yellow on the thickest setting in your clay machine and cover the coil with a sheet of yellow.

Bevel the edge like before and match the edges and close them together.

Grab the cane like this and choke it. Turn it a little bit and then squeeze again. Keep rotating and squeezing, moving down the cane a little at a time. Towards the center of it.

Flip the cane over from end to end and squeeze and rotate, work up to the other end.

Turn it a little and squeeze and rotate. You are forcing the whole thing together a little at a time and it will help with compacting everything together so there is little distortion in your work.

Once you have reduced like this to half the diameter. Roll on your work surface to smooth out all of the lumps.

Roll down to about 3/4″ in diameter and cut in the center by rolling the blade and the cane forward or away from you.

Tah-dah!




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